Stubb’s is perhaps more beloved in Austin for its live music—this is one of the preeminent venues in the city—than for its good barbecue (and its national barbecue sauce empire). Who hasn’t played at Stubb’s? The calendar’s an international who’s who of rock, blues, folk, and so on. When a show is going on in the venue below, though, it’s hard to see from most tables in the restaurant; the Sunday gospel brunch, however, is about the best anywhere, full of Southern-inspired dishes.

There’s a more extensive beer selection than you tend to find at barbecue joints, but the margaritas taste like their soapy sweet-and-sour mix. Starters and sides are a bit better than the barbecue. Serrano-cheese spinach is the best spinach dish in Austin; fried green tomatoes are world class, crusted in cornmeal yet ineffably light, even after deep frying. Considering these, plus the good onion rings, cheese fries (with jack cheese and pico de gallo), soupy black-eyed peas, and potato salad, a vegetarian can have a great meal here.

Competent, if not on the same level, are the barbecued meats. Fatty brisket, although a little smoky, is distractingly spongy. Ribs are solid performers, while chopped beef has a twinkle of brown sugar, and pulled pork is surprisingly tender. It’s all designed to go with the sauce, of course, which—although sold all over America—is best at the source.