The tin building that houses Iron Works BBQ, opened in 1978, was once the ironsmith workshop of Fortunat Weigl, a German iron worker who arrived in Ellis Island in 1913 and wound up creating iron pieces for the State Capitol, museums, and so on. Not only is the Iron Works space steeped in history, it does justice to that history, like a living museum. Exposed beams reveal the framework of the building, while fans (no A/C) make it feel like a real, live iron workshop.

Iron Works has also become one of the most beloved places downtown for barbecue. From a food perspective, this reputation is only partly deserved. You sidle up to the line, cafeteria-style, to partake in barbecued meats like hearty beef ribs, which are formidable, tender, and satisfying. Sausage is also above average. The brisket, however, is bimodal: some pieces are quite dry, while others are more tolerable. This is partially compensated for by Iron Works’ spicy barbecue sauce, which is preferable to their deep, dark regular version. Sides and the salad bar are merely average; beans taste Mexican; and potato salad is fine, if egg-heavy.

With 24 hours’ notice, you can get a custom-smoked turkey for Thanksgiving, and you can be sure that the smoky flavor is more prevalent in the bird than it is in the brisket and ribs. A sampler platter for $12.95 easily feeds two normal appetites, so that price point is right on. And even if there’s better barbecue to be had in town, we keep coming back here for the singular atmosphere.