Before it was destroyed by a fire in 2007, Bert’s BBQ on MLK was actually the pioneer of barbecue in the area, setting up shop well before anyone else, back in 1970, schooling students in the ways of smoked meat. Nowadays, the only post remains up, up, and away in Northwest Austin along a strip of Far West. Luckily, that also happens to be home to a lot of former students who can still easily get their Bert’s fix.

The counter service here is friendly, but not always fast, and you’ll notice that Bert’s offers much more than the usual sides. But what they’re all about is clear from the cords of wood stacked about and the heavy scent of smoke. What’s less clear is the smoke flavor in the brisket, although the bark’s adequately salty. It’s also a bit dry. Turkey isn’t as often dried out (a too-common problem with this most difficult of birds) and has a mild smoke flavor, but peppery, finely ground sausage is more tightly packed than we like. A popular order is Bert’s “T Man,” a heap of chili (with beans!) and sausage, topped with the optional Fritos. Sides change from day to day: creamy potato salad, chopped cole slaw, and beans. Avoid the bland, mushy black-eyed peas, and opt instead for Bert’s cakey house-made brownies, ’cause what could beat a meat-and-sweets combo?