The BurgerTex franchise includes several stores all run by extensions of one Korean family, and all are similar in concept and style, as well as quality. But the mood varies wildly from location to location. The liquor license varies—you can get beer at the one under Barfly’s on Airport (which also bakes its own buns). The colorful Drag store considers itself unrelated, but the fare is the same, save for what they tell us is a patented trio of heat levels: spicy, spicier, and spiciest. The vibe at this location (which calls itself “BurgerTex II”) is also super friendly, cartoony, and student-populated.

The standard patty has a nice kiss of charcoal, but we’re sending you here for a bulgogi burger: fine, almost crumbly strips of Prime ribeye, marinated in a sweet soy-sesame-garlic sauce, and served burger-style on a bun. It is the Korean equivalent of the sloppy joe (only a lot less sloppy): salty-sweet and as much aggressive fun as a James Cameron flick. At BurgerTex II, do order it “spiciest”—it bites but doesn’t hurt, and heed their instructions not to dress it with vinegared condiments (ketchup, pickles, mustard) at the dress-it-yourself bar, or it will make it sour.

Skin-on fries are crisp and onion rings are thick and juicy, fried in a light and chewy tempura batter.