This buzzworthy upstart tries to look unassuming in its downtown nutshell decorated with—naturally—hubcaps. But if we’ve learned anything in this line of business, it’s that the best food often comes from seedy little downtown buildings like this, and something in the font of the careful signage above says it knows it.

Inside the peacock-blue cinderblock, there’s only room for a couple of tables, a long counter against one wall, and an ATM (Hubcap is cash-only). A covered patio runs alongside the building to the garbage containers in the back, which can get downright fetid in the summer. Humble plastic tables out front make for better ventilation.

When the local press first swarmed around this place, Hubcap’s quality faltered, perhaps due to the resulting lines around the block. While this is an inevitable effect of crazed, sudden attention, it’s unfortunate, because now that it’s leveled out, the burgers are better than ever. The grill has even won over the medium-rare purists with hand-formed patties cooked to well done with a nice charred flavor and cheese that melts right into the little meaty grooves.

The regular cheeseburger is a beefy, juicy, gooey thing of beauty. The “Decker” doubles that pleasure with two patties and a layer of Texas-sized toast between them that sponges up all the juice while remaining just crunchy enough. But it is the Philly Cheesesteak that will help put Houston back in the top five for fattest cities—a regular hamburger topped with thinly shaved ribeye, fresh grilled peppers and onions, and lots of melty cheese. Number 1, here we come!

In a rare and admirable move, buns are made in house, then toasted, managing a sturdy pliancy that tends to evade breads elsewhere. Fries are recently improved, hand cut from fresh regular potatoes or sweet potatoes. Both are fried and salted right on key. Only soda and water are available to drink. Ask for ice (or veggie burgers) and you’ll annoy the staff, who rely on their speedy automation to move the queue along.

A forthcoming location, they tell us, will stay open for dinner and be BYOB. Then we will have to marry them.

I've been here a few times and am making an effort to get something other than the mushroom and swiss. Each time I am delighted and surprised at how good my burger is. Plus the sweet potato fries are wonderful and compliment the burgers wonderfully. If I'm close to downtown in the middle of the day, I will always make an effort to eat at Hubcap for lunch.

Kattywhompas - 2009-09-17 11:23

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