India and England: there are books and films exploring the complicated centuries-old colonial relationship between these two…but we’d rather eat about it. Here, The Queen Vic represents the best of both worlds, starting with the singular cozy and welcoming British pub aesthetic (too welcoming: it’s often jam-packed with young, pretty people, so before you valet, make sure you’re committed to the crowds). Of course, the dozen or so beers on tap are carefully chosen from standard UK favorites to (mostly) the local greats. There are beer dinners and cask-tappings, too. The bar stocks some great liquors and mixers and so on, but the specialty cocktail list leans toward the sweet. But if British Indian food is notorious for being of the sweeter, creamier, less spicy rendition, the stuff here’s surprising. A special of whole roasted branzino rubbed with spicy curry paste has been fantastic—look for it. The vibrant lamb vindaloo is borrowed from The Vic’s sister restaurant Oporto, and naan glistens with ghee. Best to skip the tough skewered kabobs; saag pizza isn’t better than the sum of its parts, either.

Of the British fare, fish and chips are controversial—some say they’re too greasy, but hey, it’s greasy in England, too. Scotch eggs are great, but the prosciutto and egg biscuit is too marmaladey and meat-skimpy to recommend. No worries, there’s oodles more to love.