Atmosphere’s a tough thing to pull off when you’re a food trailer, but it helps to be open only at night, like Tandoori Nite is (naturally). Aided by strings of little white lights—the ultimate cheap-n-easy ambience-maker—the parking lot of the Phillips 66 gas station actually looks inviting, especially on balmy evenings. The few wooden benches scattered alongside the truck are somewhat hidden from the unromantic view (and smell) of people gassing up their cars, and the convenience store makes grabbing a six-pack of Shiner very, well, convenient. Bring your own wine; we wouldn’t trust the mart’s selection of demi-sec Vouvray or anything.

The tandoor oven is the star here, sending wisps of gray, meaty smoke across the night sky. Intense heat (always nice in a little Texan trailer, no?) quickly sears chicken so it stays succulent and moist; it’s served with grilled jalapeños and onions, and a great coriander chutney. Chana masala is spicy and delicious, and capsicum-phobes will love butter chicken in a creamy sauce with surprising depth. Mattar paneer’s cheese cubes are substantial and mutton korma is intensely flavorful and tender (all meat here is halal). The naan varies from fine to terrific. In fact, the only real bummer about this charming, delicious little trailer is the upcharge for rice. Ah well, the drinks are cheap.