For those of us keeping score, the best modern Japanese restaurant in Texas is in…Austin. That’s right, the city that sustains itself on migas and barbecue is also home to Uchi, the most exciting and consistently outstanding Japanese restaurant between the coasts. Now that we got that bit of unpleasantness out of the way, it’s time for some good news: Kata Robata has recently opened, breathing exciting, new life into the upmarket-Japanese scene in Houston.

The space is partitioned into smaller, more intimate areas and is sparsely decorated, relying on textures and angles for impact. Brown walls cast an unfortunate murkiness in the dimly lit room and tables and chairs, though sturdy, look dismayingly cheap and IKEA-esque. It’s not quite effortless chic, but nor is it slutty, like so many others.

The real magic here happens at the tiny sushi bar. Starting with impeccably fresh fish, sushi preparations are made better than the sum of their parts by the chef’s keen awareness of his ingredients. Depending on the texture and flavor of the fish, nigiri may show up with a paper-thin slice of jalapeño, shaved bonito, or red onion. Other presentations may incorporate transparent sheets of ginger paired with shiso leaf and marinated chive or a touch of the blowtorch to warm up the fat in a belly slice. Subtle variations like a small bit of sea urchin bring a whole new dimension of flavor to staples such as sweet shrimp, and just when you think you’ve seen it all, a simple piece of seared foie gras mounted on top of sushi rice is nothing less than enlightening.

With the sushi bar coming so close to nirvana, the kitchen’s predictable, cautious robata menu is a little frustrating. Where more ambitious restaurants may put true yakitori on display—like gizzard, skin, tail, heart, or liver—Kata opts for a gentrified chicken breast instead. Agedashi tofu is, alas, a far cry from the brilliant, silky tofu creations that grace the menus of better restaurants. But this restaurant’s best work is still enough to keep us from driving three hours for a fix. And for that, we (and our ozone layer) are thankful.

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