You can have a ho-hum experience at even an authentic and high-quality sushi place like this; it entirely depends on what and how you order. If you opt for a table over the bar, for instance, and order Sushi Combination B, you might as well go to Azuma. You came to Teppay, presumably, for the real deal, so sit at the bar and order the omakase tasting menu. (Call the day before for a more expensive and elaborate omakase.)

Also, ask if the uni is good that day, or if there’s any live scallop, and you’ll be treated to the better stuff on offer, the delicacies that they hate seeing go unappreciated, wasted, and returned by American diners looking perhaps for a more flavorless, generic, and safe sushi experience. But that’s not you, so ask for ankimo (monkfish liver, creamy-dreamy and not as rich as foie gras). The freshest fish here is often flown in directly from Japan several times per week. When available, order the aji (a milder mackerel), filleted right in front of you, then its skeleton deep-fried so you can eat it, too. And don’t stop at fish; on a rainy day, the ramen and udon here goes from good to superlative, and crispy-fried pork katsu is comforting and delicious. Leave the rolls to the lesser places.