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Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Casual restaurant

Tue–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm
Sun 11:30am–10:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

4464 Montrose Blvd.
Houston, TX
(713) 523-3939
Repair the broken trust between sushi chef and diner, and you will be rewarded

Nippon, even after twenty years, is still family owned, family run, and family friendly. One look around the often-full dining room reveals an eclectic look into Houston’s diverse demographics: older Japanese businessmen flanked by swinging singles alongside families with young children and representatives from all ages and ethnicities.

Servers here are actually Japanese, but they seem to be playing to their experience with hakujin preferences, suggesting things like tempura (slightly overcooked and sometimes chewy). Instead, concentrate on the fish, which is some of the freshest in town. All of the basics—maguro, sake, hamachi, and more—are textbook delicious. Ask for aji tataki, lightly seared horse mackerel dressed ever so gently with fresh ginger, spring onions, and sesame seeds.

Better: run the gauntlet. Sit at the sushi bar and order omakase. At first, they might commend you for ordering in the proper way, but they’ll be hesitant to break outside the boundaries of rolls and nigiri. They’ve been burned by those who claim to be adventurous, but aren’t. Teach them how to trust again. Chastise them until they agree. Thump your chest a little, even—they love it.

With enough assurances (maybe learn basic Japanese? Tell them you miss the izakaya bars of Tokyo?), you can score yourself some fantastic delicacies, raw and cooked—and they’ll definitely remember you next time.

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