We have to admit, we were worried there for a while: as much as we were enamored with Indika’s creative approach to Indian cuisine, the kitchen seemed to start taking its cues from the demands of the mass market, playing into some trendy gimmicks that somewhat undermined the once-vibrant flavors we loved. It was still great, but the overbearing, gloopy sauces suggested Beaumont more than Bombay.

Happily, it seems Indika’s been restored to its former glory. Recently, a lusty-pink beet soup expertly melded sweet earthiness with coconut milk, while stuffed karela (bitter melon) crowned with green masala sauce flaunted flavors of the spice route, layering tones that worked wonderfully with the sharp gourdiness. Proteins continue to be consistently overcooked, but flavor pairings hug the subcontinent more tightly than before, like Gulf-caught grouper paired with khichri, a familiarly informal stew of rice and lentils. Goat brain masala is, as always, a spectacular treat for anyone willing to dare.

The airy space is decorated in subtle colors and flowing curtains. It’s a great atmosphere for cocktails, which, for once, we appreciate erring on the sweet side. (Sweet beverages best complement Indian spices. Unfortunately, few wines on this list fit the bill.) A “Kama Sutra” (passion fruit, gin, cranberry, and black salt) makes a refreshing palate cleanser for the creative—and once again inspiring—meal ahead.