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Fearless Critic restaurant review
American, Burgers
Counter service

Sun–Thu 11:00am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 11:00am–11:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx


Upper Kirby
2902 Kirby Dr.
Houston, TX
(713) 524-7085
Sun–Thu 11:00am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 11:00am–11:00pm

Spring Branch
1001 E. Memorial Loop
Houston, TX
(713) 863-8188
Daily 6:00am–8:00pm summer hours

919 Milam St.
Houston, TX
(713) 659-6122
Mon–Fri 11:00am–4:00pm

Becks Prime
Happily, delicious, beefy actions speak louder than self-aggrandizing words

A meal at Becks is a visual barrage of propaganda, from Texas Monthly kiss-ups to six-square-foot food-porn images of burgers, steaks, and chicken; even the sandwich-basket paper is striped with laudatory quotes from the Houston Press and USA Today absorbing the fry grease. Other than the occasional splash of red paint, self-promotion is this restaurant’s sole interior-decorating motif.

Still, the hype is justified. The ground beef is not Prime, as suggests the name, but it’s Choice, ground and formed in-house, well seasoned, and grilled over mesquite. Sweet buns, smeared with mayonnaise-based “Prime Sauce,” absorb the juices well. The kitchen-sink-style “Bill’s Burger” adds sautéed onions, jalapeños, bacon, cheddar, and lettuce along with that sauce, but the patty is good enough to warrant just a basic cheeseburger order.

The much-crowed-about fries are inconsistent; sometimes they’re crispy and sometimes limp. Shakes are too thick, while grilled and butterflied hot dogs are good. Burgers, although enormous, are pricy; one with fries and an iced tea costs nearly $15—not prohibitive, but definitely toeing the line. Is all the self-promotion meant to reassure sticker-shocked customers that their money has been well spent? It has. But the proof is in the basket on the table, not in the writing on the wall.

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