“What the Fearless Critic books and apps have that UrbanSpoon and Yelp don’t is a complete lack of bullshit.”
“I’ve spent years driving around with Zagat...but I think I’ll replace it with this Fearless Critic guide.”
–Leslie Brenner,
Dallas Morning News
Fearless Critic restaurant review
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
7.2
6.0
$10
Burgers, American
Take-out

Hours
Mon–Fri 10:00am–6:30pm
Sat 11:00am–5:00pm

Bar None
Credit cards Visa, MC

Washington
1420 Edwards St.
(713) 227-4893
Stanton’s City Bites
A divey market with some unlikely specials and a killer old-school burger

Stanton’s is the kind of sketchy hole in the wall that has gourmands all atwitter—especially burger aficionados. It’s hard to find at first, because the signage is really a sloppy hand-painted job on the bottom floor of an off-white clapboard building. Inside, this old convenience mart is a friendly little time warp, with the meat counter still operating, and rows of chips and sodas. The only place to sit is at a dingy little four-top—most business is take-out anyway.

Despite its weekly lunch specials, which are broadcast on Twitter and include middle-Americana favorites like fettucine alfredo, meatloaf, and Southern-fried pork chops (even, eep, egg rolls), this place is known for one thing above all: the burger, of which there are over a dozen different preps. Its patty is thick, juicy, hand-formed, and cooked only one way: medium-well to well. We especially love a “Truck Stop,” with a thick onion ring tucked inside. There’s also an old-school patty melt, although it comes on wheat bread instead of rye; rye does appear on an occasional pastrami sandwich special, though, so you could ask for it. Sweet potato fries are better than the regular (from frozen), but onion rings beat them all, crispy and with a moderate breading.

You might want to call ahead, as Stanton’s claims to close one unspecified Saturday a month.

Be the first to leave a comment…