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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Houston
Food
Feel
Price
8.0
6.0
$25
Mexican, Burgers
Counter service

Hours
Mon–Thu 11:00am–10:00pm
Fri 10:30am–10:00pm
Sat–Sun 7:30am–10:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

www.goodecompany.com

Rice Area
4902 Kirby Dr.
Houston, TX
(713) 520-9153
Goode Co. Taquería
A Goode-themed venture whose mesquite grill speaks louder than neon signs

Goode Co. is as endemic to Houston as the Pappas empire, and its taquería deserves serious praise for keeping the menu to such a manageable number of options. The absolute best order here is anything mesquite-grilled: deliciously marinated, tender, but undersalted fajitas; chicken breast, dry and bland compared to other meats, but still wood-kissed; ribeye, pork chops, and even quail—a rare delicacy in the rest of the world but a mainstay ’round these parts.

Cheese enchiladas are great and gooey, but well-seasoned queso gets thick-skinned after only about fifteen seconds of neglect. Burgers take on the headiness of mesquite; at the toppings bar, you can pile on jalapeños, pico de gallo, and a delicious, dark roasted-tomato salsa, in addition to the standard lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, and so on. It all makes for a burger well above average.

There’s a terrific, full breakfast served on weekends, including a spectacular eggs with quail or venison sausage, but it shuts down at 12:30pm, excluding the party crowd for whom it might otherwise hold vast hangover-cure appeal. Frozen margaritas are strong and balanced, although the plastic-cup presentation takes away from the effect. No romantic cantina, this; the characteristic Goode Co. theming (neon signs and contrived hand-painted menus) gets lost in the cavernous, airy space—but still, it’s a space filled with delicious mesquite-grill scents.

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