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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Food cart

Daily 7:00am–3:00pm

Features Outdoor dining, veg-friendly
Bar None
Credit cards None

2520 Airline Dr.
Houston, TX
No phone
Taquería Tacambaro
These sweetbread and tripe tacos will turn you into an offal fan

In the parking lot of the Airline Farmer’s Market, Taquería Tacambaro’s truck is the next step for anyone looking to advance his or her taco experience beyond the basic al pastor and barbacoa. There’s no better place to start trying organ meats than here, as evidenced by the number of local Mexican produce vendors and shoppers lined up to sample the Michoacán regional offerings.

They’re having tacos de mollejas (sweetbreads), and so should you. They can be crispy on the outside, and wonderfully creamy in the middle. They might also come mixed with intestine and tripe for a more extreme, and chewier, offal experience. Either way, they’re ideal with simple onion and cilantro, a dab of the smoky red salsa in a molcajete bowl on the counter, and a squeeze of fresh lime.

But should you still feel squeamish, fear not: al pastor is also exemplary, crispy and spicy. Deliciously fatty chicharrones are griddle fried to a light crunchiness. There are even concessions for the health-conscious: savory, juicy nopales and calabacitas (zucchini). Thick-masa gorditas, or tortas on soft telera bread are good, too. But if any taco could convince you that organ meats are underappreciated, this one should.

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