This hidden festive, old-school Mexican restaurant way out by Hobby Airport reminds us of an abuela’s kitchen, if abuela were just trying to make a few bucks while she was at it. The simple meal you have here—on floral oilcloths and cheap plastic plates—will easily blow away those at more centrally located, yup-tacular Mexican joints. The lunch rush starts near breakfast time (which should tell you how early the breakfast rush starts). And these wonderful huevos rancheros could make us into early risers.

The lunch menu’s outrageous superstar is the torta, the best we’ve had in Houston. No lie. The magic is mostly in the bread, which is baked here daily with some kind of double secret anti-sog agent, and also in the tender meats bursting with flavor. Ask for the torta de barbarcoa, a Mexican sandwich of melting barbecued meat atop a soft bun stuffed with lettuce, tomato, guacamole, and sour cream. It’s got the holy trinity going on: it’s delicious, it’s huge, and it’s dirt-cheap.

Taquería Del Sol will also ply you full of dinner, right up into the wee hours on weekends. Quesadillas and enchiladas are fine, but stuffed gorditas are better, especially with pillowy chicharrones or golden nopales. Service is absolutely good-mood-inducing; and there’s a bakery attached if you need a little postprandial pan dulce.