From Froot Loops to Pico’s Mex-Mex, toucans are always showing us the way to something delicious. This unassuming restaurant surprises with its chef-driven chalkboard specials and adherence to authenticity. Even with specious phrases like “traditional and contemporary,” Pico’s manages to stay on track. There’s much better Tex-Mex around; you’re best sticking to straight-up Mexican here, from the Yucatán (red snapper seasoned with achiote seed and wrapped in banana leaves) to Oaxaca (chicken served in black mole).

The thatched-roof patio and fountain are cute, and festive when there’s mariachi music and happy hour specials. Margaritas keep it real with good tequila, Cointreau, and fresh lime, but tell them to go easy on the agave nectar unless you like ’em sweet. Queso flameado, packed with chorizo and peppers will have you wondering where queso has been all your life. Cochinita pibil and chile en nogada are some of the best of their kinds in the city. Charcoal-broiled meats, on the other hand, are inconsistent—sometimes they taste of carbon and are underseasoned; sometimes, they’re tender, juicy, and well-singed. But this kitchen turns out three incredible moles—complex and flavorful, they have been hiding right under Houston diners’ noses for years.

What is it with these toucans? They know where all the good stuff is.