Of all the cheap sushi in Austin, Sushi A-Go-Go must have the best. We’re talking about the genre including grocery stores, Maki Toki’s Romanian rollers, and sushi squirt factories (no, how do you roll?). Rolls here run $3.50 to $8, with nigiri at around $2 apiece, yet these guys manage atypically fresh-tasting ingredients and few gimmicks. Some of it is obviously just plain fun to these former chefs and servers, but they seem to regard sushi as more than just a moneymaking concept.

The rice is consistently well seasoned and shorter grained, and rarely mushy. With the occasional exception, rolls maintain their structural integrity very well. Steak bits can be unbearably chewy, and having alfalfa sprouts stand in for daikon can throw your senses off a bit, but Sushi A-Go-Go gets its Fearless cred from its confident navigation of traditional, non-masses-catering items: natto (fermented soybeans—nutty and superfunky), kanpyo (brightly sweet squash), and plum paste with cucumber. If you find yourself at the Zilker location (which accepts MC and Visa), ask if saba’s available. Even if no saba (boo), the box lunches, with their somewhat-sweet crab salad and stellar-quality fish, are satisfying.

The adorable, spotless Sanrio-ish trailers and their friendly staff always offer daily specials. It’s worth the Twitter account to follow them.