It speaks for itself that so many girls have woken up with a half-eaten Best Wurst brat stuffed into their purse for safekeeping, and so many guys have found themselves coming out of their self-inflicted comas with their “chick magnet” shirts stained with mustard.

The smells of poaching savory-spicy encased meats waft for blocks from this well-lit food cart, attracting a host of moths and carnivorous post-midnight drunkards. The mood is generally cordial; you point, mumble, and fumble with your money. But with so much alcohol involved, the restless mob mentality can sometimes result in the occasional line-hopper and fist-fight. Best Wurst good-naturedly keeps an arrest count on its website.

Even when tasted sober, this is not bad—we’ve had much worse from fussier and pricier places nearby. The soft bread and Italian sausage specked with fennel seed hits the spot. Better yet is a piquant smoked jalapeño sausage slathered in delicious curry ketchup. That said, we’ve had better sausages with more depth and gumption elsewhere. The all-beef sausage lacks a certain, round beefiness, and the namesake bratwurst is also bland—it’s dying for extra amounts of the excellent sauerkraut and grilled onions that come with it. Like the guy or girl with whom you left your last frat party, Best Wurst ain’t a bad looker on the norm, but when a little alcohol is involved, it gets much lustier.