Even amidst the rush of pizza-tossers, the crisscrossing routes of the hip and beautiful waitpeople, and the swish of local microbrews being poured into pitchers, warmly lit Home Slice manages a certain low-key, almost romantic vibe, especially at the booths and in the back room. Wait times are often really long, but the next-door annex helps; at 3am it’s way fun, decked out like a Manhattan subway stop in a circus tent.

Crusts are thin and flavorful. The margherita, the ultimate test of a pizza joint, is not totally traditional, but has good dairy-licious cheese in just the right balance to the slightly herbaceous, sweet tomato sauce. The basil is baked, not fresh, but is still aromatic. Better is the pie with expertly fried eggplant, whose tangy, loamy flavors totally shine through. The white clam, compared to the New Haven paradigm, is a bit underseasoned and covered with tasteless, shriveled-up clams; but sausage is right on the money, flecked with fennel and not too dry nor chewy—add it to everything.

The subs are often better than the pies, to tell the truth—totally underappreciated delights that are best with hot cherry peppers. The Italian cold sub is piled high with assorted meats and vegetables on delicious bread, and the tuna salad is fresh and bright. Just prepare to share.