Let’s face it: food’s only one reason people love to eat at a particular place. Sometimes it’s the main reason, and you’ll endure terrible atmosphere for a spectacular meal; in this case, the inverse is true. That’s not to say the food’s terrible. There are actually a few things on this crusty-crunchy-spicy menu worth getting (just skip the sweet Thai-inspired stuff): tortilla-crusted catfish, whose coating has a touch of heat, and is smothered in queso; cayenne-dusted Cajun meatloaf; crisp skin-on french fries with just the right amount of salt. Salads are boring but dressings are not, and old-fashioned hamburgers are fine. Chicken-fried steak, available with cream gravy or green chile sauce topped with jack cheese, is a respectable rendition.

But really, you’re here for the unbeatable best-of-Austin atmosphere: the grassy, kid-friendly lawn facing the Barton Springs bustle, summertime KGSR concerts on the shady patio, the charming old stone building with its Western décor. Live oaks. The short walk to the springs. Need we go on? Margaritas are cheap, if not very good, and the beer selection’s simple—like the pleasures of basking in one of Austin’s happiest, most family-friendly places.