Boy, is Galaxy Café cute! And hip and fun, combining counter service and dinery food with airy, retro aesthetics (although Clarksville’s looks like a high school production of 2001: A Space Odyssey; the Hyde Park incarnation is just a sexier version of IKEA’s cafeteria). And it’s locally owned, which we love.

But the accolades stop there. The kitchen turns out blah wedding food: chewy salmon, citrus-grilled chicken, seared yellowfin tuna steak. The lack of ingenuity isn’t so bad, but it all just sort of tastes…okay. Skirt steak comes dry and overcooked, though it’s paired with a decent chimichurri. Chicken tortilla soup is fine. In general, it’s hard to get either positively or negatively worked up about this food—except for the flat, dry burger, which is downright offensive. Tomatoes are a pale, grainy pink, and taste industrially made. Ironically, several feet behind the Triangle location is a farmer’s market frequently overflowing with ripe, red tomatoes. If you’re going to be local, why not be, you know, local? Breakfast is a real bum-out, too. Scrambled eggs underperform; French toast comes with flavorless strawberries. The best time to come to Galaxy is for lunch, when your expectations are low enough to make a turkey-brie sandwich and creamy mac and cheese seem stellar. Wine is, again, no better than the stuff your cousin served at her wedding. The tacky cousin.