Buffalo Wild Wings, a nationwide mega-chain that seems to be hitting puberty—growing faster than a 7th-grade boy—might be one big homage to that greatest of American bar-food inventions, but its proliferation of wacky flavors leaves us scratching our heads. In any case, the wings are good, and come not only in myriad flavors, but also at different spice levels—great for those who don’t want tears streaming down their faces as they eat. Culinary purists will, of course, want bone-in wings; infidels might choose the buffalo-tender version (here they’re called “boneless wings,” but it’s white meat). Buffalo Wild Wings can be a bit stingy with the sauce, but they’ll always bring more if you ask.

Stray from the wings, and the menu is a minefield. Burgers are notoriously bad, and ribs disappoint. Given that Buffalo Wild Wings is also a bar, you should have a beer, though the beer selection isn’t the greatest in town. But who cares, when there are about 50 HD-TVs filling the place? The constant motion here might give you the spins, so watch how many Lone Stars you suck down. There are several different games on at once, but a UT game will be the main act here. It gets crazy packed then, but the energy is undeniable. And a little scary.