M&D’s, situated in the epitome of soulless strip centers, is of the Chaos Theory school of decorating—anything goes as long as it’s vaguely Greek, and that includes caps for sale, trellising, netting of some kind, and the obligatory mural. On a recent visit 17 of the Air Force’s finest (from nearby Lackland AFB) appeared in camo outfits—and promptly disappeared into the décor. Publicity would have you believe that the restaurant is also of the toga and smashed-plate school of hospitality.

But, starting with service, there’s soul beneath the surface. For two diners, a small appetizer plate is plenty to test the meze. The pudgy dolmades, hand-stuffed with both beef and lamb, are the best around, the multi-herbed dill sauce a good accent. Tzatziki is strangely stiff, but it’s good with the unremarkable baked potato wedges; fried okra needs neither or both of the sauces; cubes of salty feta and briny Kalamatas provide bite; the pita is merely decent; and the phyllo-bracketed spanakopita and tyropita listless disappointments.

There’s nothing wan about the moussaka, however. Bedded on sliced potatoes, it’s layered with eggplant (advertised zucchini pulled its own disappearing act), stuffed full of ground beef and capped with béchamel. The beef needed more seasoning, but this was otherwise a dish smacking of home-made simplicity. A good Greek salad accompanied it, and a forkful (all that’s needed) of baklava—uniquely and tastily topped with a honey-orange syrup—followed up famously.