Despite a well-attended, yearly Greek Festival, there’s a dearth of wine-dark cuisine in San Antonio. But should the urge arise, JTG is a decent bet; if nothing else, the menu is more varied than most, the execution usually thoughtful.

We don’t normally recommend appetizer platters for civilian diners, but one taster claimed that said platter “was generous, attractive, and each item was fresh and of good quality.” The classic avgolemono soup also got good marks, as did the über-ubiquitous mousaka—“good comfort food.” But unimpressive gyros and lackluster lamb with artichokes struck out, as did “bland and unattractive” broiled octopus. Some traditional recipes simply need to change. (This is also true of ancient wine cultures, and some of the new-wave Greek wines—think citrusy Santorinis—are available here. Torture by tree sap is no longer obligatory.)

But we have been perfectly happy with simple, pan-fried meatballs as an appetizer, and have liked the cold, marinated octopus. In treacherous lamb territory, the braised arni kotsi shank is tender and just assertive enough—but needs salt like much that exits the kitchen. The pastitsio, baked macaroni with reasonably well seasoned ground beef, is, we suspect, about as good as this unassuming dish can get.

For dessert, if “pasta flora” cookies are available, have them. Same goes for the jammy grape pie, despite a “thick and doughy” crust. “Home-made” baklava? “Flaky and delicious.”