Demo’s is proof positive that it’s not necessary to do something extremely well in order to succeed—just well enough will do, thank you. It’s an approach that has sustained the restaurant, now grown to three outlets, over thirty years. Gyros and souvlaki in a variety of sizes and compositions (we always go for the lamb souvlaki over the beef or chicken), some standard Greek salads, a few plates such as the inevitable moussaka, honey-drenched baklava for dessert…it’s all competently done (with the exception of french fries they never seem to have gotten the hang of) and reasonably priced but fails to inspire thoughts of wine-dark seas. Or brilliant blue ones, for that matter.

The original location on Blanco Road offers the cheeriest café-like atmosphere, but if we go at all it’s to the location across from the Greek Orthodox church on St. Mary’s, preferring to sit outside, perhaps in the hope that the view of the church will convey some additional authenticity. We will mention that at this location there’s belly dancing on Wednesdays, in case you’re either a fan or prefer to pass.