Texas Pride Barbecue was never a gas station, but you’d never believe that from the memorabilia that surrounds the entry. The Sinclair signs, with the green dinosaur, typify the ersatz nostalgia that pervades the place, especially during one of the Friday fish fries, the weekly classic car shows, or the Thursday night gatherings of mechanized “hogs.”

In addition to good grub, those nights feature live music, with big-name Texas troubadors, on a massive patio that has plenty of fans to fight off the heat. You can get a bucket of long-necks and forget about the rest of the world, while you dance or chat the night away. (There’s a huge playground for the kids, too.) The sight of parking guides on horseback riding around at sunset adds its own Lone Star appeal—conjuring enough hokey charm for this place to rate an appearance on Diners, Drive-ins & Dives.

The barbecue isn’t as good as the ambience, but that’s okay, given the rest of the package. The pork loin is a tad dry and the chicken flavorless, but the sausage has a good spice level and the brisket is fine. Go for the fried shrimp, if they have it out back, instead. But whatever you do, don’t leave without trying the pecan cobbler—yes, spring for à la mode. It’s a Texas treasure.