Rudy’s, springing from this small store in Leon Springs, is a growing barbecue empire that has proliferated not only across Texas but even into New Mexico. Empire-building aside, the long, picnic-style tables remind us a bit of a church supper. Despite bold signs advertising “The Worst BBQ in Texas,” lines are a frequent thing, but service is still relatively fast and often in-your-face friendly. Barbecue is sold exclusively by the pound.

Notwithstanding their jokey claims to the contrary, Rudy’s serves up some darn fine ’cue. We especially like the tender, smoked turkey breast, with flavor that doesn’t overwhelm. Extra-moist, fatty brisket is texturally terrific, but less smoky and charred-tasting than the tougher, lean brisket. It’s better with a dash of Rudy’s “sause,” a tomato and vinegar concoction that is somewhat thicker than the Hill Country standard, but still within range. Sausage is finely ground and peppery, with a jalapeño version that has a lot more fire. Ribs are hit or miss; some pork ribs have been tough and skimpy, but with a good, tongue-tickling dry rub. Sides are the usual assortment, but Rudy’s does make a whole-kernel creamed corn that is, with its sweetness, a nice change of pace.