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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
7.3
7.5
$15
Barbecue
Counter service

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

www.rudys.com

Northwest
10623 Westover Hills Blvd.
San Antonio, TX
210-520-5552
Hours
Sun–Thu 10:30am–9:00pm
Fri–Sat 10:30am–10:00pm

Northeast
15560 I-35 N.
Selma, TX
Hours
Sun–Thu 10:30am–9:00pm
Fri–Sat 10:30am–10:00pm

North 1604
24152 I-10 W.
Leon Springs, TX
(210) 698-2141
Hours
Sun–Thu 10:30am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 10:30am–10:30pm
Rudy’s Country Store and Bar-B-Q
The original Rudy’s retains its aw-shucks heart despite empire building elsewhere

Rudy’s, springing from this small store in Leon Springs, is a growing barbecue empire that has proliferated not only across Texas but even into New Mexico. Empire-building aside, the long, picnic-style tables remind us a bit of a church supper. Despite bold signs advertising “The Worst BBQ in Texas,” lines are a frequent thing, but service is still relatively fast and often in-your-face friendly. Barbecue is sold exclusively by the pound.

Notwithstanding their jokey claims to the contrary, Rudy’s serves up some darn fine ’cue. We especially like the tender, smoked turkey breast, with flavor that doesn’t overwhelm. Extra-moist, fatty brisket is texturally terrific, but less smoky and charred-tasting than the tougher, lean brisket. It’s better with a dash of Rudy’s “sause,” a tomato and vinegar concoction that is somewhat thicker than the Hill Country standard, but still within range. Sausage is finely ground and peppery, with a jalapeño version that has a lot more fire. Ribs are hit or miss; some pork ribs have been tough and skimpy, but with a good, tongue-tickling dry rub. Sides are the usual assortment, but Rudy’s does make a whole-kernel creamed corn that is, with its sweetness, a nice change of pace.

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