Ed and Waldean Ashford started their barbecue joint in a trailer that made its way around the east side. Decorated to look like an old wood shack with smoke belching from the chimney, it was a memorable sight.

Ed’s, now housed in less quirky quarters, offers old-fashioned barbecue in which the strong flavor of mesquite is unapologetic. Pork ribs sport a rub that has formed a delicious crust protecting the juiciness of the meat; feel free to gnaw the bones. The dark-meat chicken boasts a skin so crisp it appears to have been lacquered on; ignore the mealy, oversized breast. The brisket, with its ring of absorbed rub, is well nigh perfect. The same goes for the sausage, the chopped pork…

Side dishes—coleslaw, potato salad, pintos, green beans—are traditional but more controversial. The green beans in a vinegar sauce prevail; the others have a sweetness that some will love, others will not. Same goes for the barbecue sauce itself, which is both sweet and tangy. In the legitimate sweets department, the handmade desserts, especially the cakes, are worthy of a church bake sale.

By the way, the trailer is now the smokehouse, and it’s parked out back.