Universal City is depressingly well-named; its main street is a slice of fast-food America, throw in a tattoo parlor, a nail salon…But there are exceptions. At the end of Pat Booker Road looms the “Taj Majal,” the Mediterranean-styled symbol of Randolph Air Force Base. And then there’s Fiesta Patio, as a health-food Mexican restaurant in context an even more remarkable anomoly than the fanciful tower.

Oh, you can eat all the melted cheese and chili gravy you want; the owners of the city’s first health-Mex restaurant aren’t suicidal. The tortilla soup has both cheese and avocado. But it also has great flavor. The puffy tacos are trying harder for freshness; along the way they fall victim to the too-much-shredded-lettuce syndrome—but the hand-formed pillows are delicate, the guacamole a little blendy for us but good. The chicken version needs some of the tangy, toasty table salsa—and you have a tofu option. We took our tofu in the form of an enchilada with a vegetarian sauce. Both could use a little perking up in our opinion, but the idea isn’t bad. The salsa roja topping a beef enchilada was bright where we prefer deep, but it seemed healthful without being punitive. And get this: they have mastered brown rice; you really want to eat it.

We feel obliged to mention that tofu also can be had in “fajita” form, and after all our fruitless ranting about fajitas being a specific cut of beef, we aren’t about to bite. But feel free…