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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
7.9
6.5
$25
Mexican
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Thu 11:00am–9:45pm
Fri–Sat 11:00am–10:45pm
Sun noon–8:45pm

Features Outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

www.guajillos.com

North Central
1001 N.W. Loop 410
San Antonio, TX
(210) 344-4119
Guajillo’s
Guajillo’s bucks the Tex-Mex tide with its menu more focused on authentic Mexican

“It’s a shame that Guajillo’s is not just a bit more spiffy—or maybe not!” offered one panelist, and it’s true that there is effectively zero charm. Which may be its charm. At least one gets the idea that the focus is on foods such as the utterly authentic sopa de fideos; there’s a slight, oily sheen from the frying of the broken pasta, but flavors are totally on target. Even the automatic table salsa packs an unusual punch; it’s great with plain chips but better yet spooned cautiously into an excellent taco de alambre of sautéed steak, pork loin, bacon, onion, and poblanos. Points off for corn tortillas not made in-house and a taco al pastor that needs a tad more tang in the marinade.

Regional dishes such as the lusty cochinita pibil with its intimations of achiote, however, are excellent; try also the Jalisco-style lamb soup, the egg- and rice-filled meatballs in chipotle sauce and even, if feeling adventurous, the steamed cod in a tomato and serrano chile sauce. Note: there are no enchiladas on the menu. Take that, Tex-Mex.

Perhaps also atoning for the absence of atmosphere, service is friendly and efficient. Low prices compensate, too.

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