“It’s a shame that Guajillo’s is not just a bit more spiffy—or maybe not!” offered one panelist, and it’s true that there is effectively zero charm. Which may be its charm. At least one gets the idea that the focus is on foods such as the utterly authentic sopa de fideos; there’s a slight, oily sheen from the frying of the broken pasta, but flavors are totally on target. Even the automatic table salsa packs an unusual punch; it’s great with plain chips but better yet spooned cautiously into an excellent taco de alambre of sautéed steak, pork loin, bacon, onion, and poblanos. Points off for corn tortillas not made in-house and a taco al pastor that needs a tad more tang in the marinade.

Regional dishes such as the lusty cochinita pibil with its intimations of achiote, however, are excellent; try also the Jalisco-style lamb soup, the egg- and rice-filled meatballs in chipotle sauce and even, if feeling adventurous, the steamed cod in a tomato and serrano chile sauce. Note: there are no enchiladas on the menu. Take that, Tex-Mex.

Perhaps also atoning for the absence of atmosphere, service is friendly and efficient. Low prices compensate, too.