One bite of the shrimp tacos, and you’ll know exactly why lines sometimes stretch out the door. Sweet, flavorful shrimp in a cornmeal batter are fried to a light golden yellow before being stuffed into a pair of corn tortillas slathered with tartar sauce and then topped with pico de gallo and a sliver of ripe avocado. Mexican-style escabeche of carrots on the side of the plate offers a bright, tangy contrast to the creamy-crunchy texture of the tacos. You can get the same insanely excellent sensation from a plate of fish tacos, which are made with plump strips of white fish fried to the same perfect state.

Beyond that, El Bucanero offers several styles of ceviches (some chopped too fine for us), in which the seafood is marinated in everything from classic lime to popular tomato-based sauces. Do not miss the camarones aguachile. If you prefer cooked, but not fried, seafood, also try the spicy shrimp in a smoky diablo sauce.

El Bucanero has been discovered by the foodies and has been written up in a number of publications. But the clientele remains largely made up of people from the neighborhood. English is not the dominant language of staff or customers.