Sushi Zushi, “Prepared to Amaze,” does so at first by the sheer volume of its offerings; the online menu runs nearly seven, tightly packed pages. For us, this inspires dismay rather than amazement. Some contributors were actually blown away, however. Here’s one take:

“Sushi Zushi’s dining area is contemporary Japanese in inspiration and provides an elegant, tranquil atmosphere that is a perfect setting for the food…More than one native Japanese foodie has said that Sushi Zushi is the best restaurant of its kind in San Antonio and one of the best in the U.S…For those wanting specific recommendations, both the ‘Oaklawn’ [fried crawfish, avocado, and spicy tuna or salmon] and ‘Cosimo’ [fried shrimp, avocado, and cream cheese tempura-style] rolls are superb…”

And here’s another:

“The 1604 location of Sushi Zushi offers a sophisticated setting, [but] we found some disparity in the quality of the food. While the uni on the nigiri sushi was ultra fresh, the fried soft shell crab in the spider roll was limp and lukewarm, which also translates to tough…The appetizer “Shrimp Shumai” [also] disappointed...But the hand rolls were very fresh and correctly packed, the spicy scallop very good…Also, while San Antonio loves its cream cheese sushi, too many of the selections depended on butterfat. Japanese mains such as the vegetable tempura were fine...[and] the ton katsu pork cutlet was good—but the real gems were the Japanese pickles served on the side.”

Fifty-plus sakes may confuse matters further.