Sushihana takes pains. The place itself, partitioned with blond wood latticework and lit, in part, with simple paper lanterns, says “Japanese” without shouting too loud; so do the native-speaking sushi chefs behind the impeccable bar, for that matter. The wine list is astonishingly good (we hate to say “for an Asian restaurant,” but feel obliged to), the stemware and serving pieces are serious—down to the smooth and classy chopsticks, and service is attentive. And though we have always been fond of the orange miso seabass, we now have a new favorite dish: cioppino.

Honestly. The claim of “contemporary Japanese” is apparently interpreted broadly, and the dish of utterly impeccable seafood—shrimp, scallops, salmon, and mussels, each cooked to its proper point—seems altogether at home, ginger giving the broth a lilting lift. An earlier appetizer of salmon wrapped around marinated snow crab had been slightly overcooked, rendering the texture mushy, but flavors were fine. Next time, soft shell crab. Or even cliché-busting calamari in dual sauces.

Sushi, especially the rare (and expensive) fatty tuna, can be very good, though the “Dynamite Roll” could be more explosive. There’s even a “Spurs” roll served in variegated nori. We suppose they must.