We have described Osaka’s teppan-style cooking as a Roy Lichtenstein pop-art pastiche: all “Wham!!,” “Bam!!” in cartoon balloons—but without the irony. So, as with any establishment of this sort, be prepared for a superfluity of flourishes. Also be prepared to be pleasantly surprised; the food is better than one might expect. Standard soups and salads excepted, of course.

There is something reassuring about seeing the raw ingredients in front of you; not only is the chopping, dicing, and flipping initially entertaining, but the lingering doubt about what goes on behind closed kitchen doors is dispelled. Vegetables look impeccably fresh, and the cooking leaves them highly seasoned but still quasi-crunchy. Strips of squid, also liberally seasoned, are so quickly grilled that they remain al-dente tender. Same story with scallops seasoned with lemon, garlic butter, pepper, and salt. Even filet mignon, again fearlessly flavored, gets a quick cooking that leaves it fairly palpitating—oh wait, that’s the very good fried rice formed into a heart shape and made to “beat” with a spatula. Palate (the seasoning and salt) and performance fatigue will set in.

We will save you the trouble of attempting to compensate for excess by ordering sushi: don’t.