There’s a fine line between cute and too cute—and we don’t claim to know exactly where that is. For us, “Licensed Plates” slips by as a menu category; “Wrenchiladas,” on the other hand, is pushing it—though for a taco joint housed in an ex-brake-job garage, maybe we’ll let it slide. Light fixtures fashioned from motor parts add to the chaotic thematics in this colorful and popular hangout.
But we do claim to recognize a broiled shrimp when we see one, and we’d be surprised if those in a coctel de camaron hadn’t simply been boiled, despite claims to the contrary. That quibble aside, TG’s coctel is very good of the Mexican coastal type, with generous camarones, lots of avocado, and a tomato juice base with a hint of heat. “No additives in this tank” is the claim for margaritas made with “fresh lime juice”, but the “Garage Rita” doesn’t meet the Platonic standard for fresh in our book; we think it needs a tuneup.
Enchildas verdes are stuffed with the usual not-quite-flavorful-enough shredded chicken, but the tangy tomatillo sauce is a performance enhancer. Enchiladas de carne topped with cheddar are filled with a picadillo killed with comino (some of that also comes from the scant chili con carne sauce). The regulation rice is low-octane, tasting of chili powder, but the borracho beans with bacon do taste high-test. Beer, perhaps? The dark and toasty salsa that looks like it could burn up the track, however, has lost compression. Okay, cutsey-guilty as charged.
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