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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Casual restaurant

Mon–Fri 11:00am–3:00pm
Mon–Fri 5:00pm–9:00pm
Sat 11:00am–9:00pm
Sun noon–8:00pm

Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

8327 Agora Pkwy
San Antonio, TX
(210) 658-1665
Thai Spice
A matriarchy keeps one of the town’s top Thais in feisty form

Almost everything on Agora Parkway in The Forum Shopping Center is ersatz in one way or another, so it comes as a surprise that one of the city’s most appealing Thai restaurants can be found behind some standard storefront doors. Painted in shades of soothing green and accented with gilded decorative elements, the place is presided over by a phalanx of feisty Thai females, all got up in traditional garb. At last inquiry, the kitchen was equally matriarchal.

We’re fine with that—especially given that even the most modest components of a meal, say a simple lunch-special soup of ground chicken in fragrant broth, are treated with matronly respect. (The same lunch’s Thai spring roll is not the kitchen’s best food forward, however.) The condiment accompanying an order of fish cakes, loaded with lemongrass and laced with red curry, is as exemplary as the main event. Lemongrass also infuses the gang massaman, a yellow curry with coconut milk, potato, onion, and (we suggest) pork. True, peanuts were left off this last time, but the flavors were spectacular. Even more eventful is the five-spice duck in rusty-red panang curry. Okay, another minor flaw: some of the duck was a little dry. But by and large the retiring five-spice and the forward curry were sensational together. On the more subtle side of things, check out the pad Thai wrapped in a sheet of fried egg.

Steamed and (very) sticky sweet rice is the basis of many of the desserts. Consider topping yours with golden coconut custard.

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