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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
8.1
7.5
$35
Thai
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Sat 11:00am–2:00pm
Mon–Sat 5:00pm–9:30pm

Features Delivery
Bar Beer, wine, BYO
Credit cards Visa, MC
Reservations Not accepted

Website

North Central
2515 Nacogdoches Rd.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 822-5454
Bangkok 54
A tonier Thai than most, B54 stands out for inventive dishes—beware 911

Bangkok 54 prides itself on the precision of its heat levels: 0 (zip) to 6 (911 hot). Be warned that level 4 (Thai hot) is potent enough for all but the incurably masochistic. Appetizers such as kanom jeeb, a quartet of unusually good steamed dumplings served with a sweet brown sauce, aren’t meant to be spicy at all, however. Place an order and keep a couple to the side in case of fire.

Bangkok 54’s interior would probably rate at least four on the heat scale; there are attempts at actual décor, and some flora is not faux. A dish of soft shell crab with basil and eggplant is a visual disaster in contrast, but the flavors are complex. Hint: the crab is the least of this equation; ordering the vegetarian eggplant with basil and tofu nets about the same thing and costs quite a bit less. The kitchen is equally good at minimal dishes such as the pork with chili paste, and it excels with curries of the Mussaman with chicken, potato, and peanut ilk—after which a modest dessert such as the Thai taro root custard with sweet rice and coconut cream may seem both appropriate and necessary.

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