Bangkok 54 prides itself on the precision of its heat levels: 0 (zip) to 6 (911 hot). Be warned that level 4 (Thai hot) is potent enough for all but the incurably masochistic. Appetizers such as kanom jeeb, a quartet of unusually good steamed dumplings served with a sweet brown sauce, aren’t meant to be spicy at all, however. Place an order and keep a couple to the side in case of fire.

Bangkok 54’s interior would probably rate at least four on the heat scale; there are attempts at actual décor, and some flora is not faux. A dish of soft shell crab with basil and eggplant is a visual disaster in contrast, but the flavors are complex. Hint: the crab is the least of this equation; ordering the vegetarian eggplant with basil and tofu nets about the same thing and costs quite a bit less. The kitchen is equally good at minimal dishes such as the pork with chili paste, and it excels with curries of the Mussaman with chicken, potato, and peanut ilk—after which a modest dessert such as the Thai taro root custard with sweet rice and coconut cream may seem both appropriate and necessary.