Sam’s has one of the city’s most active events calendars; there’s hardly a night when there isn’t a band playing. So what do you feed a crowd of blues hounds? Burgers, of course. And wings, chili cheese dogs, onion rings…it’s all fine when music is the focus. But in the cold light of day, there’s less to distract the disenchanted diner. The ceiling clad with license plates and events posters doesn’t do it; stuffed animal heads and neon quickly lose their appeal. The branded bun is momentarily diverting, but, eventually, the burger itself has to be addressed.

The bean model is tricked out with melted cheddar, Fritos, onion…and, oddly, notta lotta bean. The beef is charred and chunky. The emblazoned bun holds up its part of the bargain. And the package is both a little greasy and a lot less than the sum of its parts. It didn’t pain us to leave some on the plate. But we were at pains to polish off the onion rings. They are crunchy, tasty, non-greasy, and mighty fine. We are accordingly also encouraged to try the tater tots, a secret failing, but will likely wait until, say, the next Art Slam with both bands and “live artists painting.” Blows the mind enough to even order Frito pie. Well, maybe not.