KC bills itself as “San Antonio’s only specialty hot dog restaurant,” and we can’t dispute the claim. There are over 30 perros calientes on the menu, including veggie versions such as the “Not Dog.” There must be a dozen variations on the theme of mustard. We admit to having maxed out at about four different dogs—and, no, one of them was not “The Alamo” with its enchilada sauce, cheddar, and extra chili powder. There are limits to local boosterism.

But we have enjoyed the more jingoistic “The Texan,” featuring Polish sausage wrapped in bacon, deep fried, and served with pinto beans, guacamole, and onions; yes, we were surprised, too, especially as the advertised Tabasco didn’t come through, and the pintos lacked presence. “The Dogfather” is a juicy, all-beef frank loaded with grilled onions, grilled sauerkraut, bacon bits, and Texas chili (whatever you do, do not order your dog with Cincinnati chili; on this point we are fiercely patriotic), and considering that the accessories are applied with relative discretion, this model also merits consideration.

But, despite the treasonous implications, we admit to preferring the “New Yorker,” a creation that summons up Manhattan sidewalks and the ubiquitous Sabrett wagons. This is a long dog with red onion sauce, sauerkraut, and frankly fluorescent French’s mustard (it matches the funky décor), and it’s classic. Yes, you can add more of everything from the well-endowed condiment table, but restraint is counseled just this once. Fries are variable, onion rings are good and crunchy.