The owner of this black-and-white checkered diner, splashed with red for dramatic effect, is Rasol Osoli, who managed the thematically similar 410 Diner for 17 years. There are similarities, but Checkers wins hands down with its usually friendly service, hot food, excellent soups, and dynamite cheesecake.

The hummus appetizer is not your typical diner fare, but it is unashamed of garlic. A loaded black bean dip gets closer to what we think of as home hereabouts. The more expected main-dish draws are the old-fashioned burgers with crisp fries or the chopped steak smothered with a brown gravy that’s loaded with fresh mushrooms. If you’re looking for something a little less nostalgic, a touch more uptown, try the grilled salmon. (We may always strive for wild-caught, but are also realists: that uptown this place is not.)

Many go to Checkers because of the array of vegetable side dishes that range from boiled cabbage with tomatoes to Sonoran casserole, a blend of zucchini, corn, green chiles, and tortilla strips. These are made fresh daily, with little salt or fat added. (This can be both a blessing or a curse, take your pick; we come down on the curse side in many cases.) The soups earn high marks for their depth of flavor, with the tomato-basil being a particular standout.

Service can be slow on occasion, and multiple mains don’t always appear at the same time. But one sip of a chocolate shake or a forkful of strawberry shortcake helps make up for any shortcomings.