Open 24 hours, a panel van-cum-billboard parked at the street, a selection of six salsas at the accessories counter…and more burritos than anybody in town: you’ve got to give Los Roberto’s credit for creativity—even in the realm of punctuation.

But there’s more to Roberto, whether singular or plural, than inventive hustle. This Mexican restaurant’s SoCal leanings likely account for the bounteous burrito selection, and among them is the chile relleno rendition. A meat-stuffed poblano inside a flour tortilla wrapper, it’s the turducken of Cal-Mex cuisine. (A burrelleno?) We aren’t sure this is something the world really needed, but it’s a pretty good package. We’d add the toasty red sauce, but then we always add toasty red sauce.

Except for a violet-purple wall, said salsas pretty much echo the color scheme of the modest restaurant. There’s a good smoky red, and the green packs a punch. The chips are good, too, so you can try as many salsas as you can carry (or return for) before your order arrives.

From the impressive torta menu, we suggest the carnitas model. It’s staggering in size, but the huarache-shaped sandwich is good enough to finish to the last shred of chopped lettuce. The carnitas are crusty and full of porky flavor, and there is just enough guacamole to keep things reasonably lubricated. A cinnamon-spiked horchata, made from a rice base, is just the ticket with the torta; the flavors of this Colonial-era drink are simple yet true.