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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.0
7.0
$20
American
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Fri 11:00am–10:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Accepted

www.timbosburgers.com

Uptown Central
1639 Broadway St.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 223-1028
Timbo’s
Average burgers in an average setting at average prices equals, yes, average

What’s to say about Timbo’s? It’s a burger joint with the usual burger joint trappings, like a stuffed trophy head and autographed, sub-celebrity photos. True, service is personable, the place is a little more consciously colorful than some, and by day it’s bright and airy. But with the exception of “Uncle Bob’s Fishwich,” and a couple of patties stuffed with cheese, onions, and jalapeño, the menu strays little from the straight and narrow norm.

Oh, there is one more exception: “Shypoke Eggs.” This appetizer was a signature item at the late and much lamented burger dive, Hipp’s Bubble Room, and it is reproduced here by permission. The shtick is that small corn tortillas are broiled with white cheese and yellow cheese masking jalapeño slices; the result, if you’re not too fussy about details, looks mighty like a fried egg, and, for all their cuteness, they are actually worth eating, no ketchup or hot sauce required, unless you insist.

There is nothing irrevocably wrong with the signature “Timboburger” that a little seasoning wouldn’t cure. The bun is plain (and a tad dry), the lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle are stacked high, and the flat, third-pound patty seriously needs a better hand with salt and pepper. Or better beef. Tater Tots, tah-dah, to the rescue. Yes, we have never met a TT we didn’t like (even the frozen ones), but Timbo’s tots are good and are, in any case, almost always safer than fries. Super size ‘em.