Thai Café occupies a former fast-food location and little has been done to disguise its origins. The popularity of the lunch buffet has been so great that the maximum number of tables possible has been squeezed into the space in an arrangement that forgoes feng shui in favor of Yankee dollars.

Once you inspect the buffet, you’ll see why. The dishes, from the expected sweet pad Thai to the surprisingly delicious eggplant stir-fry, are diverse. Soup, several appetizers including spring rolls and salads, and a generous array of desserts complement the noodle dishes and mains. There’s even an ice cream chest with Blue Bell for those want something more mainstream than sticky rice with mango—though we suggest staying sticky.

Usually disdained by critics such as ourselves, this buffet is admittedly a good introduction to Thai food: the selections are tasty, the serving trays remain hot and clean, and the food isn’t too spicy—though chili oil is available for cranking up the heat factor. In the evening, there’s a regular menu filled with usual suspects such as basil chicken, green and red curries (including a good panang), and various noodle dishes. “Diversity and delight” summed up one contributor.