We love sitting at Tito’s east-facing, streetside windows on a lazy Saturday morning, sun streaming in, cup of coffee in hand (we’d love it more if the coffee were good and the mugs bigger, however) and a steaming plate of, well, take your choice on the table in front of us. The runny huevos rancheros with refrieds and just-greasy-enough papas con chorizo will do nicely. So will “Chela’s Favorite” with potato, bacon, chile de molcajete, and egg. A “Niles Favorite” taco with bean, cheese, bacon, and avocado wouldn’t be remiss, either.

But somehow the dining space just doesn’t work at night (the adjacent bar is a little friendlier), and when the kitchen tries to stray too much beyond the borders of traditional Tex-Mex, neither do the plates. The “Enchilada Trio,” for example, consists of any three from a fairly long list, all of which seem to be variations on a theme of cream, most of which are stuffed with chicken. The most distinctive may be the chipotle cream sauce chicken version with melted white cheese; it at least had punch. A sibling with poblano chiles replacing the chipotle needed to be much more assertive. And the luxury model filled with tiny shrimp and mantled with cream sauce dotted with chopped tomato was simply trying too hard to be posh. Tito’s chips are decent, the table sauce is serviceable, and the flour tortillas are fresh and flexible, suggesting that inverse slumming aside, Tex-Mex still holds sway.