When you enter time-wearied Hung Fong, you are immediately confronted with Asian trinkets for sale, giving the impression that making money is far more important than serving good food. The impression proves all too true.

If your idea of a wonton is a rice sheet wrapped around ground pork or shrimp, then you’ll be sorely disappointed with HF’s primitive example; the pasta sheets are wrapped around nothing. Instead, they are presented in a gooey clump in a tepid chicken broth. Tough nuggets of fried pork and greens float separately on top.

Lunch specials feature a combination of lemon chicken with some other American favorite, such as Kung Pao chicken or moo goo gai pan. This is doubly unfortunate because both dishes are poorly executed. The beef with fresh mushrooms (the Monday choice) managed to make fresh ingredients taste canned. The chicken had an off flavor suggesting that it was hovering perilously close to its expiration date. The toxic orange sauce that was meant to be lemon bore traces of excess sugar and citric acid. Both are served around fried rice that is crammed full of egg, onion, and more of the tough pork bits, yet is surprisingly flavorless. The lunch special comes with an egg roll that was insufficiently fried, so that the inside of the wrapper was uncooked, gummy and slick. The fortune cookie is not made in-house; let’s take a stab at a fortune: “He who eats here risks unhappy family.”