Intestine with preserved vegetable? Bring it on. It’s the scary-sounding stuff that distinguishes this large but otherwise almost entirely charmless Chinese set in an equally desultory shopping strip. Okay, the two-dish Peking duck shouldn’t frighten anyone; it’s the most expensive plate on an otherwise modestly priced menu—and it’s worth it. But so is the regular roast duck (you can often see several hanging at the door to the kitchen), the crispy roast pork, the soy sauce chicken…

It’s just that we take perverse pleasure in shocking dining companions with “Special Fish Maw Soup” and duck feet in oyster sauce. In truth, the less odd, but locally less-seen dishes such as salted pepper squid and sautéed hollow vegetable with garlic and bean curd sauce are equally rewarding, and the sautéed snow pea leaves with garlic are one of our favorite vegetarian dishes, period. Stuffed eggplant with minced pork and shrimp is also worth a try, and if you must, pan fried noodle with shredded duck and mushroom isn’t a total cop-out—but be sure to check the specials board first. Kim Wah’s kitchen has had its ups and downs, but it’s currently up, and the specials are worth investigating.