Grady’s Hill Country Smokehouse was established in 1948, but its expansion to seven units is a much more recent phenomenon. In the process, we find it’s gone from Hill Country authenticity to downhill despondency; even the dining spaces, for all the requisite beer signs, artifacts and varnished cedar columns, seem dispirited.

We point first to a recent order of brisket. It arrived looking more steamed than smoked, lacking any signs of traditional rub or crust, loose in texture, and only very faintly smoky, despite claims of Hill Country oak. But look on the bright side: the brisket nadir has now been established. The accompanying jalapeño sausage boasted a latent kick but disappointing texture—and, again, little sign of smoke. The spicy-option barbecue sauce seemed thickened and was peppery but cloying. That signals strike out to us.

Sides fared little better: the potato salad had a food-service air; the beans did at least sport a few leaves of cilantro; but the requisite slab of white bread was dry—and we weren’t inspired to lubricate it in the sub-par sauce.

Unlike most ‘cue joints, Grady’s does offer other menu options such as chicken-fried steak, catfish, and, yikes, chicken teriyaki. At least the prices are right.