You gotta love Taco C. Founded right here in 1978, this 24-hour fast-food Tex-Mex joint does a surprising number of things right. The ingredients are fresh and simple, the flavors spicy and limey, and there is an asset known as the salsa bar that seals the deal: this place kicks Taco Bell’s a…ctually—let us put it this way: it takes that repugnant establishment’s signature stuffed taco-gordita-fajita-crispy-chewy-cheesy chalupa, and stuffs it right up its bell.

Perhaps the most impressive thing about Taco Cabana is that flour tortillas are freshly pressed on-site at each restaurant. Along with the variety of salsas, there are plenty of pickled jalapeños, fresh cilantro, and lime and lemon wedges on offer.

The best order of all might be queso (it’s the only respectable fast-food version). Follow it up with the roasted chicken “flameante”—it has a spicy, tangy skin and juicy, smoky meat. Otherwise, we particularly like the crisp quesadillas and the chicken fajitas (beef can be tough). Burritos are old-school, using fast-foody ground-beef filling. Skip the enchiladas entirely. In fact, our favorite order of all is just a pile of those fresh flour tortillas plus queso—and that’s it. Well, also an ice-cold beer.