EZ’s is a family-friendly Texas mini-chain with a 1950s-diner theme. We can see the informal appeal, especially to kids. Unfortunately, the food is a big disappointment, given the place’s popularity.

Chicken appears in many guises, and quality varies wildly. Tortilla soup is a pleasant surprise, but grilled chicken items are disgusting and spongy. You’re better off with the highly touted rosemary chicken. It’s a half bird, roasted in the brick pizza ovens; the result is moist, flavorful meat with crisp and well-seasoned skin. Unfortunately, sides practically ruin the plate. Rice has no distinguishable flavor, and essentially unseasoned carrots, zucchini, squash, and broccoli are like hospital food.

Pizzas have thick, pleasantly seared crusts but disappointing toppings, while burgers suffer from an identity crisis. You’ll find out why when you see the gristly, low-quality beef; it’s a burger with neither the meatiness and flavor of the thick-style patty nor the comfort-food goodness of the greasy-spoon style. This is one of the few places where we actually prefer the vegetarian version. Curly fries and onion rings are below average, too. Compensate with a milkshake. We prefer plain vanilla, whose careful balance of Blue Bell ice cream, milk, and vanilla syrup is cookbook-worthy.